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December 13 2018

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Thread Author: boogiepop
Thread ID: 810
Thread Info
There are 20 posts in this thread, and it has been viewed 5205 times.
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1st Consolization Project
boogiepop
Well, I've mentioned it a few times already but I should have a couple of mv-1c's coming my way. I have every intention of consolizing them but of course, as this will be my first time, it's going to take a lot of searching, reading up, asking questions, etc. For starters, I remember hearing that the 1c's have a Irritating Maze bios. If so, what should I see when I run it through my supergun? Do you know if I could solder one of those removable things in its place (like the 2+ models have) so it won't need more soldering in the future when I eventually want to replace the bios?

Another thing is I'm going to need ideas for shells to use for containing these babies in. An AES unit would be nice. I hear it's difficult but doable however the problem comes in of getting an AES in broken condition cheap or one with just the shell left over. I'd feel it would be a crime to destroy a perfectly good AES so that's totally out of the questions.

So anyway, tips and whatnot would be really appreciated. I figure I can use multimods and neo-geo's tech board as a springboard but any ideas would totally be welcome.

Thanks in advance dudes! Hopefully I'm not getting myself in over my head.
If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there.
 
Mikoto
Nice project :-) Been wanting to do the same for some time but I'm to cheap to actuallt buy the boards ;-)

As for the Bios, you could solder a socket there which you insert new bios in and then it'll be very easy to swap the bios for a new one later. It is a chore to desoler the old bios though and even more of a chore to solder the socket there. Even if it is worth it of course.

You probably can't see when the board boots or the like if you have a Irritating Maze bios in the boards, the limitation of that bios will not slap you in the face when you boot first time but rather in the long run when you try more games on the board.

AES shells would be nice but not very practical, one of the most painful problems is that MVS cartridge cases don't fit in the AES slot(not the one on the board, even though thats true aswell, but rather into the case slot). That fact kills most of the fun, you'll have to modify the cartridge slot for MVS cases.

The best would be if someone you copy and mold new AES console cases...

Otherwise you'll need a stereo sound mod(Neo Geo in MONO? Spare me ;-) ) and a 5V source and you should be well on your way. You will not need 12V for the operation you are about to do.

I've made superguns and researched a bit about this kind of stuff som please ask if you wonder anything :-) I'll gladly answer if I can.
Edited by Mikoto on 01. March 2008 23:47
 
boogiepop
Thanks a bunch dude! You answered quite a bit (including stuff I was wondering about but didn't even ask yet!Smile ).

I'd definitely want stereo sound as I was extremely apprehensive about being stuck with mono. I'll probably be asking you the specifics on that mod in the maybe-not-so-distant future. As for the aes shell, as ugly as it would look up close I wouldn't mind disfiguring it to fit the mvs carts.

I also meant to ask about the danger of soldering in a bios socket. Is it really as risky as some make it out to be? I don't have the steadiest hands but I do work very slowly and carefully when the calls for such. Would you deem that or any other part of the project too much for a newbie?

Thanks again!
If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there.
 
Mikoto
For the sound this page will probably be all you'll need: http://benheck.co...oGeo_2.htm

There is no danger in soldering the bios, it isn't _that_ difficult either, but it is still a chore :-)

Even if it isn't that hard to solder one wire, 40 wires is a lot. You should train a bit on soldering surface mounted stuff aswell before you try to solder the BIOS.

I would hardly give this kind of job to a soldering virgin but you don't need to be an expert for it. With a good soldering iron, quite a bit of patience and good music anyone should be able to do it with some training and good cables.

The BIOS part is the only part otherwise of this project that gives some challenge. The rest is a piece of cake :-) If you skip the bios then anyone should be able to do this mod.
Edited by Mikoto on 01. March 2008 23:43
 
boogiepop
Yes, that's exactly what I was looking for. T'anks Grin

Despite having bought a cheap soldering iron already, I'm thinking of investing in a soldering gun to help me get the job done right.

Oh yeah, another question (damn, more just keep coming to mind!): what do you suggest as far as encoders go? I know there's a section on building your own on multimods which I am very much interested in. Thoughts? Do you thing I should go whole hog and wire it for component or do you think s video is good enough? Both perhaps? (I'm leaning on both since I kinda want to do this baby up real nice.)

And another... (now I'm starting to feel like a pain in the ass).... do you know if it's possible to set the battery in another part of the unit so if it were to leak, it would not destroy the board? This would just be a little something extra; not really necessary, just neat if possible.

I'm getting really pumped to get started on this thing now! Heh, can't wait. Should probably start ordering parts.
If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there.
 
cthulhu
Also buy a good desoldering iron and make sure you use the right kind of solder (60/40 tin/lead with a rosin core should work nicely for electronics). Also to properly remove SMT components such as IC sockets you should use a heat gun.
A nice introduction to soldering PCBs can be found here...it helped me a lot when I modded my Euro AES and when I did some repairs on my pinball machine.
http://www.twyman...-frame.htm
My arcade stuff

"ph'nglui mglw'nafh Cthulhu R'lyeh wgah'nagl fhtagn! Ia! Ia! Cthulhu fhtagn!"
 
boogiepop
Now I've got a good chunk of reading to do! LOL
I appreciate the link and tips cthulhu. They'll definitely be handy.
If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there.
 
Midian
I won't be a big help in this cause I can't solder for shit and I don't know anything about those MVS boards, but I hope you'll end up with a nice working board boogie! Thumbs Up
img386.imageshack.us/img386/9493/ballinqq8.gif
 
cthulhu
boogiepop wrote:
Now I've got a good chunk of reading to do! LOL
I appreciate the link and tips cthulhu. They'll definitely be handy.

You're welcome...a good thing is use a spare PCB that's not working to learn how to solder PCBS...if you have one lying around.
My arcade stuff

"ph'nglui mglw'nafh Cthulhu R'lyeh wgah'nagl fhtagn! Ia! Ia! Cthulhu fhtagn!"
 
candycab
For the record the MV1-C is not the irritating maze board, rather its the otherway around. The irritating maze uses a modified MV1-C that makes it into a Proprietary piece of hardware, ie the bios.

I know the 1-C is very tempting because of its small size but I think the MV1-F is the perfect board since it has pretty much all the bells and whistles [minus the memory card reader] that are offered in the Neo hardware lineup with, stereo sound, headphone board support, Neo stick sockets, socketed bios etc.

For alot of folks they are just too large, still imho the onboard stereo and Neo game pad/ stick ports make it worth the size in the end and they are pretty easy to find on the cheap too Grin
Edited by candycab on 02. March 2008 10:46
I spent most of the eighties, most of my life, riding around in somebody else's car, in possession of, or ingested of, something illegal, on my way from something illegal to something illegal with many illegal things happening all around me.

James Newell Osterberg, Jr


"Last screw is hidden under a warranty-voiding sticker. Darn, cant return this thing to the store - guess Ill just have to make a laptop out of it!"

Ben Heck on PS3 Slim
 
Mikoto
Despite having bought a cheap soldering iron already, I'm thinking of investing in a soldering gun to help me get the job done right.


You should rather invest your money in a good soldering station where you can see and adjust the temperature of the iron and change the tips depending on the job you're going to do. Belive me, you'll love it in time just as much as you'll come to dislike the soldering gun :-)

Oh yeah, another question (damn, more just keep coming to mind!): what do you suggest as far as encoders go? I know there's a section on building your own on multimods which I am very much interested in. Thoughts? Do you thing I should go whole hog and wire it for component or do you think s video is good enough? Both perhaps? (I'm leaning on both since I kinda want to do this baby up real nice.)


Ah yes... you live in the US so you don't have RGB inputs on your TVs(generally). I have not tried any of the encoders or building one of my own, will try to see if I can find any schematics. If you're going to buy a complete encoder instead the Neobitz encoders seems very nice, I don't really understand their webpage though(it almost seems abandoned) but last time I mailed them they answered happily. You probably could steal an encoder from a Saturn or Playstation aswelll... As when it comes to Component or S-video. S-video should be enough but if you can Component is a small but nice uppgrade.

And another... (now I'm starting to feel like a pain in the ass).... do you know if it's possible to set the battery in another part of the unit so if it were to leak, it would not destroy the board? This would just be a little something extra; not really necessary, just neat if possible.


Don't feel like a pain in the ass :-) You are not. You could always try to put the battery in a nother place of the unit, I'm not sure if it will work though but if it doesn't it'll be an easy thing to put it back where it were at first. You'll basically just extend the battery holder and put it away from the board, but I'm not sure how far you can extend the battery holder without trouble.

I'm getting really pumped to get started on this thing now! Heh, can't wait. Should probably start ordering parts.


I know that feeling :-) Feel free to ask as many questions as you would like.

Candycab:

I've tried with the 1-F myself but I couldn't make a satisfying design and belive it is very difficult to do so. Otherwise your logic makes perfect sense and it is an much easier board to consolize, but the results won't be the same as with a successful 1-C mod.
Edited by Mikoto on 02. March 2008 13:08
 
candycab
Mikoto


Yeah I bet the cart slot is a huge pain when trying to make some sort of enclosure with the 1-F Wink

With a board that large the 2-F would probably make more sense.
I spent most of the eighties, most of my life, riding around in somebody else's car, in possession of, or ingested of, something illegal, on my way from something illegal to something illegal with many illegal things happening all around me.

James Newell Osterberg, Jr


"Last screw is hidden under a warranty-voiding sticker. Darn, cant return this thing to the store - guess Ill just have to make a laptop out of it!"

Ben Heck on PS3 Slim
 
boogiepop
It looks like it's still going to be a while until I get my one slots in. Oh the agonizing wait!
What I'm looking at right now are soldering stations on ebay. Is there any particular brand I should go for? I've got a coupon from ebay which expires in a week that gives $10 off a single purchase of $50 or more (not including shipping) and I figured this might be just the thing to spend it on.
Thanks again gents!
If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there.
 
Mikoto
Can't give any advice on brands, you probably have different brands in the US than we have over here anyway :-)

Just don't buy something to cheap, any station in the 80-100 $ range should be a fine piece of hardware regardless of brand. If you want to get a bit cheaper you could probably step down to 50-70$ but you shouldn't go lower. They have to make serious cuts or be very generous if they are cheaper than that :-)
 
boogiepop
Well, here what I snagged:
http://cgi.ebay.c...dZViewItem

The guy's selling it for about $10 less than everyone else and with the rebate it came out to $85 shipped. I read about the anti-shock, ESD safe tips so I made sure to get one with that.
What do you think?
If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there.
 
cthulhu
boogiepop wrote:
Well, here what I snagged:
http://cgi.ebay.c...dZViewItem

The guy's selling it for about $10 less than everyone else and with the rebate it came out to $85 shipped. I read about the anti-shock, ESD safe tips so I made sure to get one with that.
What do you think?

Great buy...it's probably really worth it buying a station like that...congratulations.
My arcade stuff

"ph'nglui mglw'nafh Cthulhu R'lyeh wgah'nagl fhtagn! Ia! Ia! Cthulhu fhtagn!"
 
Mikoto
As Boogie said, looks like a quality piece of hardware :-)
 
konsolkongen
Hello. I've been working on consolizing my MV-4 for a few days now. Progress have been really slow and i haven't even tested if it works yet Pfft

Can someone tell me if there is a spot on the board where i can tap unamplified stereo audio? The thought of using the headphone socket and turning the volume slide up too high sounds a bit scary.

Anyway if there is no other solution i should be able to tap the audio from these four points right?:
http://i40.photob...1271375750

Where the two middle points are GND and the other two are Left and Right channel, right?

Thanks Smile
 
bojan4o
i cant help you with this but here you can find more members who can
any way you should introduce your self here http://neogeoforl...forum_id=2
2.bp.blogspot.com/-ydrrBL7IMp4/TcJO0vWWqzI/AAAAAAAAAfU/7iKc_MKXqaY/s1600/The+Lone+Wolf.jpg
 
konsolkongen
Hey i took my chances and tapped the audio from the points shown in my image. It works great.

Here is where i tapped the Sync, R, G and B signals:

http://i40.photob...1271519510

Hope this helps someone Smile
 
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