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Thread Author: CrazyDiamond
Thread ID: 3747
Thread Info
There are 25 posts in this thread, and it has been viewed 6295 times.
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Who is here? 1 guest(s)
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How to get a japanese NTSC Mega Drive to work on a North American TV set
CrazyDiamond
I just bought one, but haven't received it in the mail yet, and I know how to play a Famicom on a North American TV, but not a Mega. If anyone knows, please fill me in.
 
boogiepop
Probably a step down converter or nothing at all.
If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there.
 
NEO-GEO man
Plug it in and turn it on with a cart inserted... Thats it. Its NTSC. You can convert it to english as well if you open it it and swap a jumper.
 
boogiepop
Yeah, but the voltage is slightly different. It probably wouldn't make difference for an old console though.
If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there.
 
NEO-GEO man
No its f*** all, its neither here nor there. And the output voltage of the transformer is 10 volts, which the console will put through a 7805 regulator which keeps a steady 5 volts.

US nominal voltage is as far as i know 110 volts, Japan is nominal 100 volts. Nominal voltage is what the supply authority AIMS to deliver, and youll be lucky to see that voltage spot on at the socket... It will be higher or lower depending on the load in your area, and the voltage drop through the cabling in your house....

So it wont make a difference for any console, old or new, and you need to understand how they work before you concern yourself with the difference of "nominal" 10 volts... If it was a difference of 110 volts to 230 volts, then its an issue, but not when its 100 volts instead of 110 or vise versa.

The fact the console runs solely on 5 volts means that the input voltage only needs to be higher, than that, and providing the power suppy can provide the required current, youll have no worries.
 
LIFE_IN_2D
NEO-GEO man wrote:
No its f*** all, its neither here nor there. And the output voltage of the transformer is 10 volts, which the console will put through a 7805 regulator which keeps a steady 5 volts.

US nominal voltage is as far as i know 110 volts, Japan is nominal 100 volts. Nominal voltage is what the supply authority AIMS to deliver, and youll be lucky to see that voltage spot on at the socket... It will be higher or lower depending on the load in your area, and the voltage drop through the cabling in your house....

So it wont make a difference for any console, old or new, and you need to understand how they work before you concern yourself with the difference of "nominal" 10 volts... If it was a difference of 110 volts to 230 volts, then its an issue, but not when its 100 volts instead of 110 or vise versa.

The fact the console runs solely on 5 volts means that the input voltage only needs to be higher, than that, and providing the power suppy can provide the required current, youll have no worries.


If what you said is true, then why doesn't my JAP NTSC AES work via scart=>component. It works to a certain point, but then loses synch (becomes scrambled) after a bit, then clears up. again. A vicious cycle.

Pretty sure there is a slight difference in frequency.
Edited by LIFE_IN_2D on 31. December 2011 17:51
i780.photobucket.com/albums/yy86/sevenheadedunicorn/sig-1.jpg

shot in the eye
shot in the brain
shot in the ass...
 
NEO-GEO man
Since when has 60Hz not been 60Hz??

I dont think you know enough to comment. The only difference between NEO-AES main boards is revision numbers, and that is all. Cut the PAL1 jumper, it is 60Hz, join it up, it is 50Hz, and it is that simple. There is only 2 frequencies they run on. 50Hz, and 60Hz... The BIOS decides the region, and the jumper config decides the frequency and the colour encoding mode. Nothing else. That is how it works, like it or not.

I have 2 AES consoles here... Japan factory original untouched 3-6, and a Euro 3-5 with the PAL1 cut, and uniBIOS added. I also have access to a USA factory original untouched 3-3... All 3 consoles run EXACTLY THE SAME on all 5 displays ive tested them on, RGB-S on 3 displays, and composite video on the other 2...

The Mega Drive is the same and is set to 50Hz or 60Hz in a simular way.

The incoming power supply to the console has NOTHING to do with the output frequency either.

Do you still want to dissagree that point or what?? Did i mension im an electrician by trade?
Edited by NEO-GEO man on 31. December 2011 18:39
 
NEO-GEO man
But dont take my word for it, see for yourself... http://mmmonkey.c...

http://mmmonkey.c...itches.htm

http://mmmonkey.c...itches.htm

http://mmmonkey.c.../video.htm

Its all there for you.
 
boogiepop
And this attitude is because...?

There is a difference, asshat.

"The voltage in Japan is 100 Volt, which is different from North America (120V), Central Europe (220V) and most other regions of the world. Japanese electrical plugs have two, non-polarized pins, as shown above. They fit into North American outlets.

Japanese power outlets are identical to ungrounded (2-pin) North American outlets. While most Japanese outlets these days are polarized (one slot is slightly wider than the other), it is possible to encounter non-polarized outlets in some places.

Some North American equipment will work fine in Japan without adapter and vice versa, however, some sensitive equipment may not work properly or even get damaged. If you intend to purchase electronic appliances in Japan for use outside of Japan, you are advised to look for equipment specifically made for oversea tourists.

The frequency of electric current is 50 Hertz in Eastern Japan (including Tokyo, Yokohama, Tohoku, Hokkaido) and 60 Hertz in Western Japan (including Nagoya, Osaka, Kyoto, Hiroshima, Shikoku, Kyushu), however this frequency difference affects only sensitive equipment. "

Obviously, the Mega Drive isn't a major appliance, which is why I said IN POST #2 that he probably wouldn't need to do anything. Your blathering was needless.

P.S. I wouldn't go bragging to people that I was an electrician. But since you did mention it and in all likelihood can't read, I've summed up my response in a smiley, all for your convenience.
Finger
Edited by boogiepop on 31. December 2011 23:56
If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there.
 
NEO-GEO man
You didnt listen to what im saying and hence totally misunderstood, you told me im wrong and tried to prove it with a heap of totally irrelevant info, and then you name call??? Whats the go??

We are here in this thread to talk about how a Mega Drive will or will not work. If you knew what you were on about, youd clearly know that the power supply frequency is insignificant. Its a rectified DC supply to the console. DC has no frequency....

The input voltage AGAIN is in this case isignificant, cause the majoirty of console runs on a 7805 to keep a constant 5 volts.

Furthermore, i never even MENSION the supply frequency, other than to say it is not important. Which its not. The only mension of frequency i do speak of is the SIGNAL OUTPUT FREQUENCY, which has absolutely NOTHING to do with the AC outlet frequency.

So tell me, WHAT is the difference between the way the consoles will work based on their geographical location? Cause that is what it comes down to...

boogiepop wrote:


"The voltage in Japan is 100 Volt, which is different from North America (120V), Central Europe (220V) and most other regions of the world. Japanese electrical plugs have two, non-polarized pins, as shown above. They fit into North American outlets.

Japanese power outlets are identical to ungrounded (2-pin) North American outlets. While most Japanese outlets these days are polarized (one slot is slightly wider than the other), it is possible to encounter non-polarized outlets in some places.

AC supply is ALL non polarised... Its ALTERNATING, there is no consistant + and - . In some instances, neutral is tied to earth, and that is not polarizing anything, that is bringing the neutral potential to be equal with earth.

boogiepop wrote:

The frequency of electric current is 50 Hertz in Eastern Japan (including Tokyo, Yokohama, Tohoku, Hokkaido) and 60 Hertz in Western Japan (including Nagoya, Osaka, Kyoto, Hiroshima, Shikoku, Kyushu), however this frequency difference affects only sensitive equipment. "

Which means NOTHING to this thread at all. Not one single thing. We are talking about a DC piece of equipment. It is put through a rectifier. There is no frequency supplied to the console. Ive allready said that.

boogiepop wrote:

Obviously, the Mega Drive isn't a major appliance, which is why I said IN POST #2 that he probably wouldn't need to do anything. Your blathering was needless.

So why say the voltage is slightly different?? Who cares if it is? Do you really think the voltage out of your wall outlets is dead smack bang on the voltage your supply authority nominates it to be? It NEVER will be. Every installation has voltage drop, and the higher the current flow in any one circuit, the higher the voltage drop will be.

boogiepop wrote:
P.S. I wouldn't go bragging to people that I was an electrician. But since you did mention it and in all likelihood can't read, I've summed up my response in a smiley, all for your convenience.
Finger

What it means is i dont have to google my answers and post a heap of copy and paste material about supply voltages and supply frequencies that mean nothing to this thread.
 
NeoStrayCat
Since when did this started becoming a flame war, all that C.D. wanted was some help, and you guys start F'ing around...

I'm surprised that C.D. hasen't replied yet, since he doesn't log on much.
card.exophase.com/1/712966.png
 
http://www.youtube.com/user/NeoStrayCat
cthulhu
Wow, what a useless "discussion".

@NEO-GEO man:
boogiepop wrote:
Yeah, but the voltage is slightly different. It probably wouldn't make difference for an old console though.


Take it easy, you could have stopped after this reply.
My arcade stuff

"ph'nglui mglw'nafh Cthulhu R'lyeh wgah'nagl fhtagn! Ia! Ia! Cthulhu fhtagn!"
 
NEO-GEO man
Take what easy?? Misinformation is a dangerous thing... It wont make ANY difference, and i explained in great detail why it wont.

And when its all explained how it works, people want to argue further, follow it up with a google search and post word for word from a website a heap of information they dont understand that has no relevance to the question??

And im the "asshat" ( whatever that is ) cause i gave correct information?
 
cthulhu
NEO-GEO man wrote:
Take what easy??
And im the "asshat" ( whatever that is ) cause i gave correct information?


I'm really amazed by the fact that you're oblivious to the fact that you come across as being really on the offensive in this thread. My comment has absolutely nothing to do with the correctness of the information you gave, it's just the attitude of the way you phrase things, that's off-puting to some people here. Some things you write are quite blunt and using caps on certain words to get your message across doesn't help either. That's why I wrote that you should take it easy.
My arcade stuff

"ph'nglui mglw'nafh Cthulhu R'lyeh wgah'nagl fhtagn! Ia! Ia! Cthulhu fhtagn!"
 
priest
I think that thereīs no need to jump at each others throat because of this rather trivial missunderstanding from both sides.

Thanks for the information and I hope that Crazy Diamond got the answers he wanted.

Letīs all forget this little mishap and move on, OK?
i149.photobucket.com/albums/s49/huwuno/userpriest.png

Used with the kind permission from their creator "Shiny"
 
http://www.motalaarkadhall.se/
hitorkori
priest wrote:
I think that thereīs no need to jump at each others throat because of this rather trivial missunderstanding from both sides.

Thanks for the information and I hope that Crazy Diamond got the answers he wanted.

Letīs all forget this little mishap and move on, OK?


i second that not a good start to the new year if a simple question like this spirals into whats above !

ahh megadrive had a jap megadrive on launch with rambo & thunderforce those were the days 20+yrs ago eeeeekkkk
 
CrazyDiamond
I hooked it in to the only two inputs on the TV I wanted to use (a video input, and ONE audio input), and instead I get either a blank screen, or a distorted screen in black and white with a rolling picture. These are the cables on the tail end of the TV input wire:

img543.imageshack.us/img543/8002/img0122aa.jpg
 
LIFE_IN_2D
Black and white rolling video? Sounds like what happens when you plug PAL into NTSC. You sure it's JAP?
i780.photobucket.com/albums/yy86/sevenheadedunicorn/sig-1.jpg

shot in the eye
shot in the brain
shot in the ass...
 
CrazyDiamond
Yeah! The guy I bought it from told me it was!
 
NEO-GEO man
Hmm, i think its a PAL machine too, and the Hong Kong machines are PAL, with a Japan cart slot.

You can make it NTSC anyway by swapping the jumpers inside.
 
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